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Big Waves Return Sunday

Weather Story: Building high pressure from the south is working against any further rain chances. The ridge now looks like it will strengthen next week, bringing warm, dry conditions. Highs greater than 10ºF above normal will be possible.

From the National Weather Service in Monterey:
***HIGH SURF WARNING***
... for the immediate coast of Monterey & Santa Cruz Counties from until 9PM Sunday

**Coastal Flood Advisory**
... for the immediate coast of Monterey & Santa Cruz Counties from 3AM Monday to 3PM Monday

A new large, long period northwest swell arrives on Sunday which will result in breaking waves from 23 to 28 feet, and locally up to 30 feet at favored breakpoints. A High Surf Warning will be in effect through much of Sunday for an increased risk of rip currents and large shore break. Sea surface temperatures remain cold, down in the lower to mid 50s. Cold water drownings occur each year with these events but are avoidable by remaining a safe distance from the coastline. Continued vigilance is advised. Additionally, King Tides have returned to the region and will ebb and flood on Monday. Large, long period swell and highest high tides of the year will overlap and allow the intrusion of seawater into low lying areas, generating minor coastal flooding. The highest of the high tides is expected on Monday morning. Thus, the surf zone/area beaches will be hazardous leading up to it and through Monday afternoon.

  • For the High Surf Warning, dangerously large breaking waves of 23 to 28 feet, locally in excess of 30 feet at favored breakpoints. These waves will also result in an increased risk of strong rip currents and coastal erosion. For the Coastal Flood Advisory, minor coastal flooding expected. High tides expected in the mid to late mornings with low tides in the late
    afternoon to early evenings. The High Tide at San Francisco will meet or exceed 7 feet each morning.
  • For the High Surf Warning, Large breaking waves can sweep people off jetties and rocks, and into dangerous seas. Life-threatening swimming conditions and localized beach erosion can be expected. Cold water rescues or drownings are more likely with these waves and stronger rip currents. For the Coastal Flood Advisory, flooding of lots, parks, and roads with only isolated road closures expected.
  • With a large northwest swell occurring at the same time as the high astronomical tides, larger run up and coastal erosion along coastal areas is possible.

If travel is required, allow extra time as some roads may be closed. Do not drive around barricades or through water of unknown depth. Take the necessary actions to protect flood-prone property.

Everyone should remain out of the water due to life-threatening surf conditions. Stay off of jetties, piers, and other waterside infrastructure.




Sunday: Slightly warmer with low 60s on the coast and mid 60s inland. Mostly sunny.

Overnight:  Mostly clear and chilly. Lows in the 30s on the coast with patchy frost and 20s-30s inland with widespread frost. Some fog possible in low areas.

Extended:  Dry conditions can be expected through the weekend into next week. Building high pressure may send temperatures into the 70s for some areas Tuesday/Wednesday. Most areas will see highs of 10ºF above normal for this time of year.


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This week's normal temperatures:

--COASTAL CITIES--
LOW: 42ºF
HIGH: 60ºF

--INLAND CITIES--
LOW: 36ºF
HIGH: 61ºF

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-The outlook from the Climate Prediction Center for January 15th – 21st calls for the likelihood of ABOVE normal temperatures and BELOW normal precipitation. 
-El Niño/La Niña STATUS: Weak La Niña
-Forecast into Winter: La Niña Advisory

-Area drought status: 
Moderate drought for our entire viewing area.  

Article Topic Follows: Local Forecast

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Dann Cianca

Dann Cianca is the chief meteorologist at KION News Channel 5/46.

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