He wants a less hectic, car-free life. Here’s why this Mediterranean town is the perfect retirement spot
By Silvia Marchetti, CNN
(CNN) — Sometimes making a fresh start isn’t all about big plans for the future. It can mean small changes such as walking instead of depending on a car.
That was one of the key factors for Michael Steven Grant when he started considering a retirement move.
Grant, a 63-year-old former sales professional, was looking for a smaller-scale place with access to a larger city, and the coastal town of Sitges in Catalonia is ideally located less than an hour southwest of Barcelona in northeastern Spain. Grant began moving toward retirement in 2022 when he started splitting his time between New York City and the cozy Spanish seaside town surrounded by sandy golden beaches, Mediterranean views and fresh air.
He and his partner purchased their apartment in Sitges for €235,000 (about $255,000).
“There are several reasons we bought our future retirement home in Sitges. One reason is in a small coastal town, the ability to walk to food markets and restaurants – not needing a car as you get older – is great. Sitges is easily accessible from Barcelona, 30 minutes by train, for anything you need, medical, arts and entertainment, airports and great high-speed train rail connections to all European cities,” Grant said.
The two-bedroom apartment, featuring a small balcony, is only a five-minute stroll to the beach, and “the cost of living as one gets older is a big consideration. Sitges is overall much less expensive than it is in New York City,” Grant said.
Grant plans to apply, probably next year, for a special “non-lucrative” Spanish visa that requires applicants to support themselves with a minimum of €2,400 per month (about $2,600) without working.
Right now, Grant spends part of his time in Sitges, where he goes as a tourist with up to two stays per year of 90 days. He plans to sell his NYC apartment and settle some family business before he moves to Spain full-time.
After many busy years – and too much driving – in the health insurance and fundraising fields, the slower-paced lifestyle and warm Mediterranean climate have acted as a reinvigorating balm.
‘The mandatory siesta’
Grant, who grew up in Ontario but has lived and worked in far-flung places including Honolulu and Sydney, was looking for a detox from his former high-stress life.
“Sitges has a very laid-back atmosphere. We love going for a three-four mile walk along the promenade that runs along the coastline, stopping for a coffee or snack, doing a little reading or grocery shopping, swimming for two hours. Then, the mandatory siesta midafternoon.”
The pros: great quality of life and affordability, Grant says. And the only con — which ends up being a pro — is that you slow down and enjoy life.
Grant has fully acclimated to the Spanish rhythm, quickly picking up the Spaniards’ penchant for late dinners that run past midnight. He has learned not to be impatient in waiting for the check after a three-hour meal, and the prices are pleasing when the bill arrives.
Compared with the United States, a good meal out with wine is about €50 (about $55) as opposed to more than $150 in the NYC area. High-speed trains from Barcelona to Madrid are €18 (about $20), compared with an Amtrak Acela from NYC to DC, which is closer to $150.
But it wasn’t all a piece of cake settling down in Sitges to live the expat dream. Opening a bank account, dealing with taxes and getting a mortgage to buy the apartment required patience and help from local professionals, who are expats’ best bets when navigating bureaucracy.
“As are all big moves in life, you must be open-minded, accept things as they are, where you are. I met a friend in Barcelona who put me in touch with a good, local bilingual lawyer who was key. He helped me go through all steps of opening a bank account … getting a mortgage with a Spanish-based bank and buying a home.”
Grant says it was crucial to have a professional on the ground to coordinate with daily to ensure things ran smoothly, such as paying all necessary local, city and federal taxes annually.
“Unlike the US, where writing checks is still common, in Spain all is done digitally, with wire transfers. Make sure you always have your US passports with you for conducting business,” he advises.
Enlisting help from locals
Grant soon realized the “Spanish way” meant learning how to act as a native and pick up social customs that are typical of many Mediterranean countries where networking and fostering contacts is crucial.
“Make sure you always thank, with a small gift and cards, everyone who has helped you along the way: banker, attorneys, they are invaluable resources and can help you with referrals to other professional services you may need.”
“Small gifts such as a bottle of wine, dinner gift certificates from top restaurants as treats and thank you’s, and doing the same on holidays, always remembering your attorney, banker, plumber, electrician.”
Grant’s top piece of advice for other expats wanting to follow in his footsteps: really soak up the vibe and live as locals before taking the leap and buying property.
Based on his experience, he suggests visiting several times throughout the year and not just in summer when it’s high season. Walk around at night, get a sense of the local community and really put the neighborhood to the test to make sure it’s easily accessible to everything you’d need before purchasing a home.
Getting to know neighbors and having local friends and contacts helped Grant with good recommendations and referrals, like finding handymen.
Once Grant found his new community, he turned his Sitges life into a business opportunity by helping other expats relocating to Spain.
He’s currently a sales consultant at a relocation company in Barcelona supporting American and international buyers in navigating the local real estate market, handling paperwork and legal issues and being a liaison on redesigns and renovations.
In the future, he’ll fully retire in Spain. “NYC has gotten very expensive.”
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