How ‘sportstyle’ sneakers took the resale market by storm
By Daniel Yaw-Miller
(CNN) — The sneaker resale market is a fast-moving beast.
For years, Nike’s ubiquitous Dunks would be snapped up as soon as they dropped on the brand’s sneakers app, often to be sold on the secondary market for double the price.
Today, sportstyle footwear — fashion-forward adaptations of trail, running or hiking shoes — has become the latest category to command eye-watering prices on the secondary market. Celebrities, fashion insiders and gorpcore enthusiasts have coveted favorites like Salomon’s XT-6 trail sneakers or Asics’ Gel Kayano 14 silhouette since the 2010s when designers began co-opting the aesthetic of niche outdoor sports, but sportstyle entered the mainstream more recently: Hoka and Swiss-running company On only became $1 billion-a-year brands last year.
A quick look at any resale site will tell you this style of footwear is what’s driving hype among sneakerheads. On the US-based resale platform StockX, the fastest growing sneaker brands so far this year in terms of sales were On, with trade activity up over 15,000 percent year-on-year, Salomon, up 202 percent, and Asics, up 72 percent .
While these brands still lag behind Nike, Adidas and New Balance in terms of overall trade, their volume on the platform — Asics and Salomon are the fifth and sixth top-selling brands, respectively — is gaining fast thanks to strategies borrowed from their larger competitors and favorable trends such as consumers’ long-term preference for using performance footwear in everyday life, said Drew Haines, StockX merchandising director for sneakers and collectables.
Performance, but make it fashion
Sportstyle sneakers uniquely blend style and performance. Nike Dunks or New Balance 550s are sports- inspired, but a serious athlete probably wouldn’t wear them on the court. Hokas or Salomons designed in vibrant colorways for the fashion crowd, however, are identical to their less-flashy performance-line counterparts. All Salomons are produced to withstand the Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc, the legendary, 160-kilometre alpine ultramarathon, the brand’s chief executive Franco Fogliato told Business of Fashion in April.
“We love fashion and how it’s allowed us to play around with the design of our products, but we will never compromise performance ,” he said.
While the bulk of Salomon’s sales come from its staple hiking and trail running shoes (and ski equipment), its biggest driver of growth comes from fashion enthusiasts and consumers buying its footwear for everyday use. It’s now just as likely to see Salomons on the streets of Brooklyn or east London — or, in Rihanna’s case, at the Super Bowl halftime show — as it is in the mountains.
In the quarter ending June 30, Asics sportstyle category grew net sales 51.5 percent year-on-year to ¥28.1 billion ($193 million) while profit was up 72.5 percent. The category is the Japanese sneaker giant’s second most profitable segment, behind only its core performance line, according to the company’s quarterly earnings report. Meanwhile, On’s net sales increased 52.3 percent year-on-year to CHF 444.3 million ($504.8 million) in the first half of 2023.
Experts believe this category of footwear will long outlive more fads like the chunky dad sneakers, which have been phased out by the fast-moving trend cycle. This is in part thanks to the utility, durability and performance credentials of sportstyle sneakers, which represent good value for money to consumers, whilst looking stylish too.
“With their price point and association with high-end brands and retailers, it seems there’s a lane for them to play specifically within high fashion long-term,” said menswear expert and brand consultant Clayton Chambers.
Collaborations fuel the hype
The resale market plays a vital role in allowing regular consumers to get their hands on these products, especially as the most-hyped collaborations are often released via niche retailers or through quirky in-person activations.
Over the last year, Asics reached peak hype sneaker status after sellout collaborations with digital mood board Jjjjound and breakout Copenhagen womenswear label Cecilie Bahnsen, alongside the brand’s longstanding sportstyle partnership with London-based menswear designer Kiko Kostadinov. Pairs of the first iteration of the Bahnsen collaboration, which feature Asics Gel runners adorned with protruding blue flowers, change hands on StockX today at an average sale price of $730, according to the platform. (The sneakers initially retailed at $425).
Salomon’s original fashion breakthrough came in 2016 when the brand released its first sneaker collaboration with The Broken Arm, a fashion-forward Parisian boutique. That same year, it tapped former Arc’teryx designer Jean-Phillippe Lalonde to head its sportstyle offerings, and the brand went on to become a serial fashion collaborator. Its most-hyped sneaker so far this year came in May in the form of a sellout tie-up with New York brand Sandy Liang, releasing a special edition of its XT-6 trail shoe in a pink, black and dark green colorway.
After selling at $175 on the initial release, the sneakers currently trade on StockX at an average price of $400. Sportstyle is now the fastest-growing product category for the brand in terms of sales, Salomon marketing executive Alex van Oostrum told BoF in February.
Lalonde’s work at Salomon didn’t go unnoticed for long. In 2021, On tapped the designer to oversee their special projects and fashion partnerships, which have since included footwear collaborations with Loewe and technical outerwear brand Post Archive Faction.
The success of sportstyle brands’ collaborations has also led to soaring demand on the secondary market for their regular, mainline sneakers, as well as helping disrupt the monopoly on hype sneakers previously enjoyed by Nike, Jordan and Adidas with its now-terminated Yeezy line, said Haines of StockX.
“Sneakerheads are increasingly seeing brands like Salomon, Asics and On as a way to differentiate themselves,” Haines said. “It’s like they woke up one day realizing that they had 30 pairs in their wardrobe, half being Jordans and the other half Yeezys, and thought: ‘it’s about time to shake up the rotation.’”
Editor’s Note: This article was originally published by The Business of Fashion, an editorial partner of CNN Style.
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